Jump

http://www.oliverbonacini.com/Jump.aspx

About this time last year, a friend who is not really into food, got hyper talking about his dinner. He highly recommended Jump and said he always goes there during winterlicious. As of last week, I share his passion.

APPEARANCE
dark cherry red, intriguing, with a reputation
From start to finish I did not experience one disappointing moment at Jump.
We slightly confused whether it was Wellington East or West, as that 3D sign, as funky as it looks, never really jumped out at me. And so we found it and entered this mall-like building, contemplating going up or down, as we finally found the entrance and made it for our reservation.

NOSE
blackberry, dark plums, metallic hints

The host was waiting for us. He had people
look after our coats and give us coat-check numbers, then we walked around a big part of the restaurant, to get sat down. Ok this is one biiig restaurant, and it was sure busy for a Thursday evening. On the way, it was hard not to notice the odd plastic sticks everywhere.. I suppose stylish grass, and once in a while a charming metal frog jumping up (quite elegantly). As we were sat down, we were under a large table lamp - two of which were by the windows covered in beige, stick-figure illustrated drapes. To be the honest, from the metal, to the plastic decoration, carpet-like drapes and wooden tables.. Materials were fighting a bit.

SWIRL
leather notes, pronounced legs
Our waiter quickly greeted us and handed out the menus, brown leather feel with a small, elegant, engraved logo. Poured us water, while we looked through, and let me note these glasses were never empty for more than 10sec. The winterlicious dinner menu had a wine-paring-of-each-dish option, which cheri pointed out. I asked the waiter how the matching works and he said that there are two sommeliers between all the Oliver and Bonacini restaurants who work with chefs for the winterlicious menu. However, he assured me all employed there have a certificate in spirits and wine and will be more than happy to help if we ever need advise. And by the way he was sweet and slightly proud saying that, as much as writing it all out sounds like boasting. Our bread with pepper-tomato dip came right after he put our menus away.


PALATE
very structured, medium tannins, young feel

Suspecting Jump to be the a typical large restaurant, lacking in quality and service, giving out coat-check numbers, I assumed it is probably the service people pay so much for. I was more than happy to receive a wet slap on my face as the food arrived. Jump exceeded my expectations, immensely.
So I started with an Ontario Buffalo Mozzarella salad matched with a Black River Torrontes. Mon cheri, had the Togarashi Beef Tenderloin Tataki with a glass of Creekside Unoaked Chardonnay. Once I was served my salad, I was a bit disappointed to the amount of mozzarella, which looked more 4 small store-bought bocconcini, until I felt their perfect texture. The two different types of beets added an interesting flavor. The delicate, tropical wine complimented the dish gently.
Next came the mains, my Grilled True North Atlantic Salmon came with a glass of G. Marquis Pinot Noir. And the wines were always served a few minutes before the dish. So after tasting my intense, a bit spicy Pinot Noir, I asked the waiter if he didn't confuse my glass with cheri's Rubrato Aglianico. He said he believed he didn't but still took the glass poured it out and gave me a fresh new one.. And so it turned out I was wrong, it was an aged pinot noir, which I didn't quite recognize. My salmon was, delicious and went perfectly well with this opinionated Pinot. The mushrooms on the side were enhanced very well by hints in the wine, and the scattered grains made the dish for me. Not far off, cheri's Ontario Lamb Cacciatore was not-worth-missing either. I am not a fan of lamb in particular as the smell always bothers me too much to actually enjoy a dish, but this fine meat had subtle hints of lamb aroma which I actually appreciated.

And finally came the desserts. I asked cheri to get the Cappuccino Panna Cotta, as I really wanted to try it, but I couldn't have coffee. In return he picked for me the Spiced Banana Cake, which came with an Indian Summer Riesling. The bread not fresh but a bit dry and filled with allspice. It really needed that coconut mousse cream on top. My late-harvest Riesling had mango, pear aromas, topped with cinnamon. It was not overwhelmingly sweet, it was great by itself but when matched with all the spices of the banana cake.. I was a bit too much for my palette. There was rum pineapple salsa on the side of the bread which was essential in complimenting the bread and marrying it with the wine. Cheri's Cappuccino Panna Cotta had a lovely smooth texture, powered with coffee and overall not too sweet. It was matched with a 10yr Tawny Port - strong, sweet with a lovely caramel linger at the end. To say the least, it was an interesting combination with the dish.

FINISH
developing on the palette, a great balance of bitter and sweet
We took our time eating all these dishes, presented wonderfully. We were probably in there for roughly 2hours.. it was busy. We heard no music as everyone around was chatting, but that didn't rush us or create an uncomfortable atmosphere, it was rather natural. All our other senses were so pleased, that sound was hardly an issue.
Throughout, the cheese, meat, wines all encouraged local produce. I was pleased and impressed. I honestly haven't tasted food this flavourful and well-crafted since Paris. Splendid!

Overall, a A soul-full Cab Sauv.